5 Days in Curacao

Ease into the island in Willemstad, the UNESCO-listed capital and one of the most photogenic cities in the Caribbean. Start on the Punda side at the Queen Emma Bridge, the floating pontoon footbridge that swings open across St Anna Bay to let ships pass. Cross it on foot for the classic view of the Handelskade, the row of ochre, blue and coral Dutch-colonial gables along the waterfront.

From there, walk into the lanes of Punda to the Mikve Israel-Emanuel Synagogue, the oldest synagogue in continuous use in the Americas, famous for its sand-covered floor.

Stop by Fort Amsterdam, the 17th-century fort that still serves as the seat of government, with a small church museum and a cannonball lodged in one wall. Then cross to the Otrobanda side to the Kura Hulanda Museum, a thoughtful, sobering collection on the transatlantic slave trade and African heritage.

To understand the city rather than just photograph it, join a Willemstad walking and food tour, which threads the historic districts together with tastes of local dishes such as the national favourite, keshi yena.

End the day in the Pietermaai district, the restored waterfront quarter of pastel townhouses now full of bars and restaurants. Have dinner with a view back over the bay, and circle past the Queen Emma Bridge after dark to see the waterfront lit up.

Pick up the rental car and head west to Westpunt, the rugged far end of the island that holds Curacao's most famous coves. Begin at Playa Kenepa Grandi (Grote Knip), the postcard beach: a wide horseshoe of powder-white sand sloping into water that stacks in bands of aqua and turquoise. Climb the eastern lookout for the photo everyone takes.

Walk over the headland to the quieter sister cove, Playa Kenepa Chiki, for a calmer swim.

Work your way back along the coast to Cas Abao, a manicured, palm-fringed beach with loungers, a bar and a small entrance fee, widely rated one of the island's finest. If you would rather hop between free coves, swap in Daaibooi or Playa Jeremi, both relaxed and uncrowded.

Stay out west for sunset at Playa Forti, a cliff-backed beach that faces west and is a classic spot to watch the sun drop into the sea. Grab a casual seafood dinner at the cliff-top restaurant before the drive back to town.

Today is all about the water. Curacao is one of the world's great shore-diving destinations, where you walk straight off the beach onto a healthy reef without needing a boat. Head to Sint Willibrordus and Playa Porto Mari, famous for its double-reef house dive. Certified divers can gear up on the beach; everyone else can snorkel straight out over the same coral.

Drive out to Playa Grandi (Playa Piscado) near Westpunt, a working fishermen's beach where green sea turtles gather in the shallows. A short snorkeling-with-turtles session here puts you in the water with wild turtles a few steps from shore. Keep a respectful distance and never touch or feed them, as it is part of the protected Curacao Marine Park.

If you have time and energy, cool off afterwards at the calm cove of Playa Lagun, another easy snorkel spot tucked between cliffs.

Back in Willemstad, treat sore arms to a relaxed dinner. If you fancy a different angle on marine life, the Curacao Sea Aquarium on the Mambo Beach side stays open into the evening on some days and is an easy add-on near the bars.

Swap beaches for nature in the two national parks at the wild end of the island. Start early at Christoffel National Park, the island's largest park, home to Mount Christoffel, the highest point on Curacao. Energetic visitors can tackle the Christoffel sunrise hike to the summit, a steep but rewarding scramble best started at first light before the heat; gentler scenic driving routes loop through the park for those who prefer to stay low.

From there it is a short drive to Shete Boka National Park on the windward north coast, where the open Atlantic hammers into a series of limestone inlets. Walk the cliff paths to Boka Tabla, where waves boom into a sea cave, and Boka Pistol, where surf shoots up through the rocks. This is the rugged, dramatic side of Curacao, and a complete contrast to the calm leeward beaches.

On the way back, if you saved energy, detour to the Jan Kok flamingos, salt pans near Sint Willibrordus where flamingos often feed at dusk. Then return to town for a well-earned dinner.

Finish with the island's signature excursion: a full-day boat trip to Klein Curacao, the uninhabited islet off the southeast coast ringed by white sand, turquoise water, an old lighthouse and a shipwreck on the windward shore. Most boats depart early from the Spanish Water and Caracas Bay area, so plan for an early start.

Book the Klein Curacao day trip a day or two ahead and pick a calm-weather day, as the open-water crossing can be bumpy.

On the island, the day is yours: swim and snorkel in the clear leeward shallows, where green turtles often appear, walk to the lighthouse, and relax under the simple beach shelters. Most operators include lunch and snorkel gear on board. Spend the afternoon soaking up one of the most beautiful, undeveloped beaches in the region before the return sail.

Back near Spanish Water, you arrive in good time for a final dinner. The nearby Caracas Bay peninsula is a pleasant spot to watch the light fade on your last evening. Toast the trip with a glass of the island's own bright-blue Curacao liqueur.